NEW YORK – What defines a suit? The upcoming Met Gala exhibit suggests it's far more than mere tailoring. Curators believe it embodies history, culture, identity, power, and, most importantly, personal expression.
"Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," this year's spring showcase at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute, will commence with the star-studded Met Gala on May 5. This groundbreaking event marks the first Met exhibition dedicated solely to Black designers and the first menswear-focused theme in over two decades.
In line with tradition, the exhibit sets the tone for the gala's dress code. This year's theme, "Tailored For You," encourages attendees to explore their creativity within the bounds of classic tailoring. Anticipate an array of stunning suits.
Monica L. Miller, guest curator and professor of Africana studies at Barnard College, noted the suit's versatility, suggesting everything from Savile Row elegance to tracksuits could be expected. Miller, surrounded by photos and notes, is currently immersed in the meticulous task of writing descriptive labels for over 200 exhibit pieces.
Miller emphasizes the suit's multifaceted representation and the intimate nature of tailoring. "It's not solely about achieving a physical fit," she explains, "but about expressing one's desired message for the evening."
The exhibition was inspired by Miller's 2009 publication, "Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity." Andrew Bolton, curator of the Costume Institute's blockbuster shows, invited Miller to serve as guest curator. The exhibit uses dandyism to examine the evolution of Black style.
Miller states that dandyism is about defying conventions. The exhibit is divided into 12 thematic sections, including Ownership, Presence, Distinction, Disguise, Freedom, Champion, Respectability, Jook, Heritage, Beauty, Cool, and Cosmopolitanism.
The initial sections will delve into the 18th century, highlighting historical artifacts. Later sections will explore the 20th century and beyond, juxtaposing historical garments, accessories, and photographs with contemporary fashion.
The gala, held annually on the first Monday in May, will host a diverse group of celebrities from entertainment, fashion, and sports. This year's co-chairs include Pharrell Williams, Lewis Hamilton, Colman Domingo, and A$AP Rocky, with LeBron James serving as honorary chair.
Adding to the star power, the event boasts a host committee featuring athletes like Simone Biles and Jonathan Owens, Hollywood figures like Spike Lee and Ayo Edebiri, musicians like Janelle Monáe and André 3000, author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, and other prominent artists and fashion icons.
Guests will have the opportunity to explore the exhibit during cocktail hour before the formal dinner. This year, impeccably dressed celebrities will examine both exquisite tailoring examples and historical pieces, such as an 1830-1840 horse jockey uniform.
In a recent behind-the-scenes look, a museum staff member was seen carefully restoring jockey trousers. Nearby, a classic 1987 Jeffrey Banks suit, featuring a double-breasted jacket, trousers, and a plaid wool coat with a light pink tie, was displayed alongside a beaded denim jacket and trousers by Jacques Agbobly, a Brooklyn designer promoting Black, queer, and immigrant narratives.
Miller notes the show's intent to spotlight both renowned and lesser-known designers, including anonymous figures from the past. It will also traverse history and class, showcasing garments worn by individuals from various economic backgrounds.
Due to the limited availability of garments worn or created by Black Americans before the late 19th century, the early sections will incorporate paintings, prints, decorative arts, film, and photography.
Noteworthy items include civil rights activist W.E.B. Du Bois' laundry and tailoring receipts, illustrating his patronage of tailors in Paris and London.
The "jook" section will feature a clip of the Nicholas Brothers' stunning tap-dancing performance in the 1943 film "Stormy Weather."
Miller explains the desire to showcase movement within the clothes, noting the limitations of static fashion exhibits. She speculated on the possible use of stretch material in the Nicholas Brothers' tuxedos and highlighted the tuxedo's transcendence of social categories, being worn by both formal event attendees and service staff.
The exhibit is a discussion about class and gender. It will be open to the public from May 10 to October 26.