ADDIS ABABA, Ethiopia – The vibrant energy of Ethiopia's capital was immediately apparent, even through the haze of jet lag as we navigated the bustling morning streets of Addis Ababa.
Our guide explained that fully experiencing Ethiopia would require at least three weeks, as we passed throngs of office workers and families with goats destined for Orthodox Christmas feasts. The country boasts natural wonders, from the Simien Mountains National Park's dramatic peaks to the Danakil Depression's vast salt plains, which could fill an entire month of exploration.
However, even travelers with limited time can experience a taste of what Ethiopia has to offer. "With a few days, you can get a taste," Yonas Zewede of Landscape Ethiopia Tours assured.
What followed was an ambitious three-day journey through the East African nation's remote sacred sites and lively urban landscapes.
The city, which translates to "New Flower" in Amharic, is undergoing a transformation, with construction evident everywhere. Amidst a sea of cranes and scaffolding, historic churches and mosques stand alongside modern shops and eateries.
Ethiopia's most renowned export, Arabica coffee, is among its enduring treasures. Our day began at Tomoca Coffee on Wavel Street, one of Addis Ababa's original coffee roasters. The institution, which only offers standing room, serves macchiatos – strong coffee with a splash of milk – and a milder coffee and tea blend called sprice for under a dollar.
A coffee ceremony, a ritual practiced in Ethiopian homes, restaurants, and hotels, is necessary to fully appreciate the region's coffee culture. The aroma of incense mingled with beans roasting over hot coals, each batch hand-ground before brewing in a clay pot and poured with care, while bowls of salted popcorn were passed around.
We would have time for the complete ceremony later. We went to the nearby Merkato, one of Africa's largest outdoor markets, after a quick caffeine boost. We spent hours wandering through a maze of alleyways, passing vendors selling everything from fragrant spices to handwoven baskets and live chickens.
Zewede guided us through the chaos, avoiding both traffic and towers of merchandise balanced on people's heads, while keeping an eye out for pickpockets. Before continuing, we had a warm chornake, a substantial fried pastry, and fresh papaya juice on the side of the road.
Shiro Meda Market provided a more relaxed shopping experience. Walls were lined with elaborately embroidered dresses and other vibrant textiles. The ankle-length garments, known as habesha kemis, range in price from $15 to $50. We sampled unusual varieties such as cactus, coffee, and black cumin at Safi Honey while learning about Ethiopia's extensive beekeeping history.
We each purchased 16-ounce jars of the local delicacy for $9.
Anthropology enthusiasts will enjoy seeing "Lucy," one of the oldest hominid fossils. The National Museum of Ethiopia, which costs 40 cents to enter, has exhibits on African art history and human evolution. A plaster replica of Lucy's partial skeleton is on display, while her original remains are kept in the museum's vault.
We made our way to the chic 360 Lounge atop the Monarch Parkview Hotel as dusk fell over Addis. From here, one could see the capital's changing skyline, with modern towers rising above older, tree-lined neighborhoods.
We took a short one-hour flight north to the Amhara Region, where several countries have issued travel advisories due to ongoing conflicts. We were transported to an entirely different Ethiopia. We drove through rural highlands, mountain curves, and scattered herds of livestock in a sweltering van, two to a seat.
Lalibela, a location regarded by some as the Eighth Wonder of the World, proved to be worthwhile.
King Lalibela set out to create a "New Jerusalem" more than 800 years ago, complete with 11 churches meticulously carved out of solid volcanic rock. The craftsmanship is so exceptional—using only 12th- and 13th-century hand tools—that local legend claims angels assisted in their construction.
Catacombs and ceremonial passageways, including a pitch-black tunnel said to represent the journey through hell, lie beneath these architectural marvels.
Thousands of pilgrims had gathered in Lalibela for the upcoming Orthodox Christmas. They formed seemingly endless processions through the sacred passageways. Many had walked for weeks to reach this sacred site and mark the end of their 43-day fast. We squeezed into the stone structures among worshippers deep in prayer. Many kissed the weathered walls; some stopped to take pictures with us.
Biete Medhane Alem, thought to be the world's largest monolithic church by UNESCO, was our first stop. Its impressive scale was remarkable, with over 30 imposing columns gracing its exterior. Biete Ghiorgis, or the Church of Saint George, with its iconic cross shape, was the most memorable site. Looking down into its sunken courtyard, it was easy to see why this combination of nature, architecture, and spirituality has captivated visitors for centuries.
Later, at Kana Restaurant and Bar overlooking Lalibela, we savored fragrant awaze tibs (a spicy meat dish) and hearty vegetable stews served on fresh Ethiopian flatbread, or injera. As the sun set behind distant mountains, we knew we had only scratched the surface of Ethiopia and were already planning our return.
- Many visitors, including Americans, can apply for Ethiopian E-visas online or obtain visas upon arrival at Addis Ababa Bole International Airport.
- Despite a 2022 peace agreement in the northern Tigray region, travelers should be aware that several countries continue to issue travel warnings for parts of Ethiopia, including the Amhara Region, due to ongoing conflicts.
- Purchase an Ethio Telecom SIM card at the Addis airport for connectivity in Addis Ababa and Lalibela.
- To make the most of a short visit or layover, think about booking with a tour operator like Landscape Ethiopia Tours.